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September 03, 2010

Saxony Wools

I have just been on holiday in the South East of Germany near Dresden in Saxony. Apart from being a beautiful area with stunning architecture, it also gives its name to a type of merino wool!

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In 1765 Ferdinand VI of Spain gave some Escurial merino sheep to Prince Xavier the Elector of Saxony and these were then interbred with the Saxon sheep to produce the Saxony Merino or Electoral Merino. These sheep produced a very fine, dense, soft yarn which made German wool famous as the best in the world.

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Many Saxony merinos were exported and they form one of the bloodlines for many of the extrafine merino strains today. Germany is no longer considered a source for the finest Saxony type wool - that is now produced in Australia and, to a certain extent, South Africa. By using Saxony wool, mills can get a lovely soft handle on the cloth which is preferred by some who think that wool is a bit scratchy.

August 20, 2010

Let's Twist Again!

Back in our “Free Rein” story in July we had a few pictures of a twist– which we have had a great reaction to. Below are a couple of pictures of some more twists which have been ordered recently in response to that story. Again you can see the textured background to the cloth achieved by using a twist.

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These ones are by Bateman Ogden – a traditional old firm (so traditional, they don’t have a website!) from Bradford, the heart of the worsted industry in the Industrial Revolution, that has survived where most others have perished.

June 25, 2010

After Care

One of the most common questions we are asked is how to care for the clothes we make after they have been purchased. First, try and wear your suit only once a week and let it rest and regain its shape in between wears. We recommend hanging trousers by their hems so that the weight of the trousers encourages the creases to fall out and using a good quality hanger for the jacket.

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Secondly, just like finding a good quality tailor, take some time and effort to find a dry-cleaner who will keep your new clothes in top condition. The modern dry-cleaning process is based on a highly industrialised mass market approach, whereas what you need is someone willing to take some time and care over your garments and not subject them to the rigours of a modern dry-cleaning system. You should only need to do this once, but it is worth going to some trouble to sound out your local dry-cleaner. Here are a few clues to help you gauge the quality of your dry-cleaner:

Do they sponge and press garments by hand? This is the least invasive and best quality cleaning process that there is. It is an old-fashioned name for the process and if your dry-cleaner gives you a blank look, then try to make sure that weak solvents are used and that they are applied selectively to the stained areas of the garment by hand. In all cases try to avoid any more industrialised processes which will be too hard on your clothes.

If you find a dry-cleaner who is happy to provide this service, then we would recommend dry-cleaning your suit about once every 20 wears. We will be posting a more in depth update in the near future on this topic covering shirts as well – so keep your eyes peeled!

June 10, 2010

Bespoke Shirts - Part I

Over the last couple of months we have got our in-house bespoke shirt service up and running. Previously we used an external shirtmaker, but having it in-house means that we have complete control over the quality of our shirts.

The biggest development is that we have started to offer a muslin fitting for every new customer. Retailers do not usually go to this level of service anymore and rely on the feel or colour of the cotton to sell shirts. Our emphasis is on fit, first and foremost, because that is our primary concern. It doesn’t matter if the customer chooses a sea-island cotton or a Super 200s, if the shirt doesn’t fit perfectly, we have failed.

The muslin is essentially a toile fitting which we use to perfect each customer’s pattern before we even touch the shirt cotton, and sometimes before the customer even chooses the cotton.

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Although it is called a muslin fitting, we actually use a batiste. We tried a muslin and two types of calico before we settled on a batiste thanks to the helpful people at The Cotton Patch. The batiste works extremely well because it is pure cotton and replicates the drape of our cotton shirtings extremely well. As you can see from the picture below, there is a simple band collar, but no cuffs or finishing on the hems – it is the pure form of the shirt.

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So for a one-off cost of £100, each customer goes through this experience to perfect their pattern, and then we can start making shirts for them which fit beautifully.

April 20, 2010

What does Super 100s cotton mean?

We often get asked the question, “What do these Super numbers actually mean?” when customers are looking through the cottons. The numbers themselves are called Ne numbers and there are two reasons why they can be confusing. First, there seems to be several competing explanations, and, secondly, the real definition is rather archaic!

Essentially, Ne numbers give the amount of cotton yarn that can be spun from the same weight of cotton. It stands to reason that if more cotton can be spun from the same weight, then it must be a finer cotton yarn that results, therefore the higher the Ne number the finer the cotton. This doesn’t sound that complicated, but add in the actual weights and measures and it begins to get baffling: the Ne number denotes the number of hanks that can be spun from an imperial pound. I know it is on the tip of your tongue, but a hank is 840 yards, which makes 768 metres, and a pound is 0.45kg.


Alumo Super 200s, Super 160s (Green), and Super 100s with Porto Fino cuff.


An Alumo Super 200s, Super 160s (Green), and Super 100s with a Portofino or cocktail cuff.


Most high quality cotton mills use this English definition of Ne numbers, but some can use the Metric or the French system. These systems use exactly the same description (e.g. Super 200s) but the cotton is less fine under these measures than the English measure.

One final thing worth noting is that the Ne number does not correlate to the thread count per square inch. This is a very common misconception because this measure is used for other cottons, like bed sheets for example, but it does not apply to cotton shirtings.

February 19, 2010

Dugdale White Rose “Caldonaire”

The Caldonaire bunch was released in 1911 to celebrate three rivers: the Calder, the Don and the Aire. These rivers provided a natural source of energy which spurred the industrial revolution and, particularly, the textile industry in North Yorkshire. In addition, the softness of the water was ideally suited to the production of cloth (more on this in future entries) and of course the rivers were a wonderful source of power and transportation for both the raw materials and the finished goods.

We think that this bunch is the best so far in Dugdale’s campaign to re-issue the White Rose series, especially the collection of tweeds in the front of the book, which have to be seen to be truly appreciated, so come in to the shop to have a look! This type of colourful herringbone tweed is a great, hard-wearing staple for every man’s wardrobe.

Dugdale White Rose Caldonaire Tweeds

Dugdale have recognised that there is a current trend of customers valuing traditional cloths, but instead of re-inventing tradition, they have combed their archives to find cloths which are traditional, yet still seem fresh and original to our eyes. And the best thing is, these cloths are still made in Yorkshire.

The White Rose series itself was very popular right up through the 1960s – as shown by this period advert that we discovered in our back issues of ‘Tailor & Cutter’ magazine.

Dugdale White Rose Advert